gitana del mar [colombia]

T A Y R O N A

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only 4 hours by car from cartagena is tayrona national park, where a coastal jungle meets some of the most raw and beautiful coastline i've seen. the park is diverse and feels alive [and sounds like jurassic park with all the howler monkeys]. one of our favorite days here was hiking to one of the many beaches [although it was quite hot]. 

in a 26 mile stretch towards the coast, the terrain goes from 19,000 foot lush jungle mountains to the tropical carribean sea. it is a very special place and the energy here is captivating. we built our visit to this region around staying at a resort that a friend highly recommended, gitana del mar. 

G I T A N A 

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gitana del mar almost feels like it's own private island when you arrive. away from the bustling streets and small town, it is quiet, serene and calming. this is a place i know i will dream of going back to, and i could not recommend it more. scroll for our photo journal of some favorite memories. 

day trip from cartagena: isla baru photo journal

cartagena is really hot in the summer

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and walking the streets was really fun, but also really difficult to do for the entire day because we would get exhausted by the sun. we kept hearing that there were islands nearby that many people take day trips to (and saw TONS of men trying to sell us a boat ride) and we finally decided that it might actually be really fun and refreshing. 

we ended up pricing out a few of the offered tours before we realized they all actually work together and it really didn't matter. we boarded a cute little boat and rode for about an hour before arriving to isla baru –– here, we got off and spent the entire day lounging/swimming/drinking coconuts. you can also take separate snorkeling trips/etc. –– but we were more interested in relaxing and catching up on our books. 

the beach bars were adorable, the water was refreshing, and there was plenty of shade to hide under when it got too hot. if you're heading to cartagena for a few days, i'd definitely recommend this day-trip! we were back in the city by 4pm, just in time for sunset happy hour. some favorite photos below...
 

O T H E R  P O S T S  Y O U  M I G H T  L I K E:

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paracas, peru: where the desert meets the sea

PARACAS, A BLEND OF DESERT AND OCEAN

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after our night in huacachina we headed a little over an hour towards the coast. where the desert and sea come together lives a little town called paracas, full of grungy beaches and ceviche stands... and we weirdly loved this place. millions of birds live here year-round [including the pink flamingo!], and thousands of others that fly from the northern hemisphere and further south, ranging from guano birds to humboldt penguins. 

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R E A D  M O R E: S A N D B O A R D I N G  I N  P E R U

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WHAT TO DO IN PARACAS: MAKE SURE TO SEE THE PARACAS NATIONAL RESERVE

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THE AREA IS KNOWN FOR: paracas national reserve, ATVing through the reserve, ceviche, lots of birds, islas balestas and wind surfing. we drove our rental car literally into the desert and were blow away by the volcanic beaches, massive coastal cliffs and the blending scenery. if you get lucky, like we did, you might even spot some wildlife too; flamingos, penguins and other birds, lizards and other marine life. there is a visitor’s center next to the entrance of the beaches, and for about $3/person you can spend the day at the beach. make sure to pack some cold drinks and snacks, because once you're in the park, there aren't many options [ do NOT suggest eating at the restaurant in the park – everything was of very bad quality and over priced, including the pisco sours. we were warned by locals and still had to learn the hard way]. 
 

^^ red sand beach! 

^^ playa de la mina

THE POOR MAN'S GALAPAGOS

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rich in wildlife, islas ballestas is also known as “the poor man’s galapagos”,  as they are far less expensive and offer many of the same animals. these islands can be visited by boat from the paracas harbor for about $15 – 20 a person. it is usually a guided half day trip and they claim you might see anything from dolphins, peruvian pelicans, penguins, sea lions and much more. unfortunately we didn't get the chance to do this – but if you're interested you can book tours through almost any hotel/hostel or directly at the harbor.   

WHERE WE STAYED: BAMBU ECO BUNGALOWS

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our budgets worked well with this eco resort that was tucked away on it's own little private beach. the rooms were simple, the drinks were good, and we enjoyed SUPing in the morning amongst the many pink flamingos and other birds in a protected bird sanctuary. here are the details:

WHERE WE STAYED | bambu paracas eco bungalows
PRICE PER NIGHT | $65/night
ACTIVITIES AVAILABLE | SUP boarding, kite surfing, beach bon fires, sand bar & kitchen.
 

zapallar | slowing down in chile's best kept coastal secret

CHILE'S QUAINT SEASIDE VILLAGE, ZAPALLAR

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driving south down the chilean coast, the landscape drastically changes from flat coastal desert to hillside green mountains and crystal blue pacific ocean bays. approaching zapallar on a warm sunny day was uncannily reminiscent of driving down highway 1 towards carmel and big sur. this quaint seaside village has preserved natural beauty tucked away from any major roads and is full of history and character.

WHAT TO EXPLORE

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known by many locals to be chile's most beautiful beach, for over a hundred years it has been a retreat for many of the country's economic and political elites (which explains the many historic and beautiful mansions). with only one night in this special place, we were itching to get to the beach explore ASAP. we dropped our bags at our charming hotel [scroll down for more on casa wilson], and past the small fishing boats as we walked straight to the beachside cafe (cesar's - a staple ). a few pisco sours later we were enjoying freshly grilled fish, shellfish and epic people watching (nearly everyone was chilean and we felt like the only tourists).

we doubled up on seafood and headed to el chiringuito for dinner, and peaceful night views over the bay. it wasn't enough time here, but this place is a dream for a beach vacation and really feels like you're stepping back in time. 
 

WHERE TO SLEEP: CASA WILSON

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"the most charming house in zapallar" was built in the early 1900s and only recently became a bnb. it was one of those places that when you arrive, you start to laugh because of how perfect it is – secluded and private, but walking distance to everything (no need for a car), views & vibes, vintage home furnishings & loads of character. we were obsessed. our time here was spent enjoying the sound of the ocean, walking to and from the beach, exploring the quiet neighborhood streets around us, and hiking up the hill for a perfect sunset spot. 

HEADED TO CHILE'S CENTRAL COAST? HERE ARE THE DETAILS:

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WHERE: zapallar, chile (central coast) 
HOW TO GET THERE: 2 hour drive from santiago (we rented a car for about ~$50/day)
TIME OF YEAR: dec - march [note: january & february is the peak of the busy summer season, we went in march and had less crowds, but still perfect beach weather] 
PRICE PER NIGHT: ranges from around $150 per night with breakfast included
ACTIVITIES AVAILABLE: beach days filled with body surfing (& surfing), frescobol, and lounging. horseback rides in the hills, boat rides to the islands, fishing trips, bike rides, hikes and trail runs.
 

Y O U  M I G H T  A L S O  E N J O Y:

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pine cliffs at albufeira, portugal

our last stop in portugal was a fancy one thanks to adam and jackie who splurged with points and treated us with a two bedroom spot at the pine cliffs in albufeira. once we arrived it was obvious that we weren't going to leave the property during our stay. days were spent enjoying the red-rock cliffs, warm water and beach bar – nights were spent with dinner on the water and dips in the pool. 

thank you again, A & J, for joining us and for spoiling us on our last two nights in this lovely country!