following our visit to marrakech we rented a car and headed west for our final days to be spent seaside. after an easy 3 hour drive through the argan country we arrived in essaouira, a port city on the atlantic coast with white walls, chill vibes and interesting history. we welcomed the cooler temps, and KP was happy to know that the strong trade-winds make their crescent beach a popular place for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing.

WHERE WE STAYED:
villa maroc exceeded all expectations – we could not believe how perfect this place is. tucked on the outskirts of essaouira's small medina, the hotel literally feels like a tiny castle. the atmosphere is constantly warm and intimate with always-lit candles + fireplaces and fresh flowers from their other property, jardin de villa maroc [where they offer free day trips 15 minutes away to enjoy their pool and olive grove]. one of my favorite things about villa maroc is that it's actually four connected 18th century riads covered in moroccan textiles and ceramics, yet has a very refreshing white crisp feel. there is no true common area, rather a mix of 6 or 7 extremely comfy little nooks where you are welcomed to read, hang out, eat dinner or just enjoy the sound of the wood burning fire. the restaurant serves breakfast on the roof terrace daily [included with your stay, and it's not to be missed!] they also offer a casual three-course dinner each night with a constantly changing menu. we admittedly ate here for dinner both nights and did not leave often because of how cozy & comfortable we felt. rooms start at about $100/night.

WHAT WE DID:
this town is small. it's easy to cover in two days, but more is certainly not too many if you're looking to relax.
the water: rent surf boards down the beach at explora and grab espresso or beers afterwards at beach and friends | fancy a camel ride on the beach? there are a ton of options to choose from
to eat & drink: patisserie chez driss for morning coffee and local moroccan pastries | elizir for dinner | taros for a drink | le patio d'essaouira for a drink | restaurant café des arts to see live gnaoua music
to shop: essaouira was my favorite place to shop. haggling didn't really exist and things cost what they cost. it was a refreshing change of pace and we were able to pick up a few last minute souvenirs before our departure.

^^ on our way home we were ecstatic to see one of the famous "goat trees" along the side of the road. these goats happily climb right on up to munch on argan nuts & leaves, it was so fun to witness in person.

* this stay was part of a collaboration, all opinions are my own.

where to eat, drink & explore in marrakech

October 19, 2016Kate ParrishComment

it's almost impossible to wander marrakech for more than 10 minutes without stopping in awe of amazement of something or someone. the history, culture, and modern chic-ness is so present from the moment you arrive [see our video from marrakech, here].

a true melting pot of tourists and locals alike, there is something for literally everyone here. an almost sensory overload [in the best possible way] the city is constantly thriving. spend one [or two or three] of your days getting lost in the ancient walled medina. spend another exploring ville nouvelle "the new town", filled with trendy boutiques and cafes. there are no shortage of vibrant colors and things to see in this city – with the energizing souks, mosques, gardens, markets, fancy hotels, live music (crazy clubs?! apparently) and constant smells of mint tea and spices around every corner.

the nightly market [jemaa el-fnaa] is also worth dedicating a few of your evenings to. even if you don't plan to eat here, walking through is a true experience. the square is packed with food stalls, juice stalls, drummers, singers, fire-breathers, snake charmers, henna artists and what feels like thousands of other street entertainers. the shopping here is of course on another level as well, and you can dedicate full days to just haggling your heart away. the full travel guide is in the works, however here are some of our immediate favorites:

lodging review: zamzam riad in marrakech

October 17, 2016Kate ParrishComment

marrakech was our second to last stop in morocco and we were looking for a cozy place that was near the action – but not too near the action. riad is a term you'll hear often in morocco, meaning a traditional moroccan house [or palace] with an interior garden or courtyard. you'll find them everywhere, some more special than others. zamzam is one of those special ones – it really, really feels like home the moment you step through their doors.

our taxi dropped us as far as the road would take him and we were pleasantly greeted by faysal, the evening manager, on his motor bike. he walked us through the small streets where only pedestrian and bikes are allowed, into a quiet cozy neighborhood where zamzam is tucked. the riad is a bit hard to find, i'll admit, but that also made it fun and faysal gave us tips on how to always find our way back. after a mint tea in the open air courtyard we were shown to our room which was so tastefully covered in classic moroccan decor. everything about it was comfortable and we also peeped our heads into a few other rooms, and loved seeing how unique and special each one is.

some of our favorite things about zamzam were: the exceptionally warm staff, the roof terrace, the delicious breakfast included with each night's stay [french pressed coffee, moroccan pancakes, fresh fruit, eggs], the well-priced traditional hammam offered in their spa, the homey vibes and the fact that it was off the beaten path, yet walking distance to almost anything [the main market is only 10 minutes away on foot]. rooms start at about $100/night.

and if you're visiting morocco for a longer time, zamzam also has a desert & beach camp that we are so eager to visit, however we just barely missed their opening date [october]. camp adounia offers many retreats and packages that you can read a little more about here and here. channeling the peace and serenity we felt at zamzam now!

* this stay was part of a collaboration, all feelings and opinions are my own.

the road to the desert: ouarzazate & aït benhaddou

October 14, 2016Kate ParrishComment

as i mentioned in my last post, the road to the sahara is a long one. not only is it lengthy, it goes directly through the atlas mountains, which is windy and pretty slow. if coming from marrakech, many people stop in ouarzazate for a few reasons: the name itself [ouarzazate] means "without noise" and it is a very calm and peaceful city, half way between the sahara and marrakech. it's also home to aït benhaddou – the most famous kasbah in morocco. this striking example of moroccan architecture is actually made up of six kasbahs and nearly fifty ksours (individual smaller kasbahs). Up close the clay and straw buildings [local pisé clay method of building] are breathtaking.

aït benhaddou has also been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1987 and has gained even more recognition because of how many films have been shot there (indiana jones, gladiator, game of thrones, etc). we were lucky enough to find a really cool airbnb [$40 a night] owned by a french man + moroccan woman that have created a little oasis in the middle of the desert. they have a chilly pool, beautiful rooms, delicious food, a golden retriever, cold beers, laundry... and are extremely fun to chat with. we had a relaxing evening at their cozy spot before hitting the road to marrakech the following day by way of grand taxi [packing into a car with strangers for a windy road, yay]!

glamping in the sahara with desert luxury camp

October 12, 2016Kate ParrishComment

i literally had no idea that the sahara would be on our morocco agenda until a few days before we went. after doing research and talking to other travelers, i quickly realized it was something we could not miss during our visit. there are hundreds of ways to get to and stay in the desert, but after reading up on different experiences we wanted something a little more private and special because, who knows when we'll be back.

after rental car drama because of the eid holiday i mentioned in this post – we were lucky to catch a ride with a very sweet german couple. we packed our bags into a teeny tiny car and had a hilarious 8+ hour ride. the next two nights were spent at desert luxury camp, an awesome outfitter we are so excited to partner with.

the DLC experience:
the camp strongly urged us to stay two nights in the desert to get the full experience, and i'm so happy we did. DLC takes what might be a stressful experience and has it completely dialed in. we arrived in merzouga in the evening and were immediately greeted and picked up in a 4x4 to drive us through the dunes into camp. driving in the dunes is scary at first, but so much fun and to see what these trucks can handle is incredible.

we settled in with mint tea and snacks before watching a beautiful sunset and later cozied up in our tent which was mind-blowingly nice considering we were in the middle of nowhere. later a delicious moroccan dinner was served al fresco followed by drums and singing around the firepit.

the following day started with a sunrise camel trek, sand boarding, yoga, reading, cards and packing in outdoor activities before the sun and sand were too hot. during that time we hid under the shade and threw back cold [non-alcoholic] drinks. i have to admit, the mid afternoon in the desert is pretty brutal, but the cool mornings and evenings make up for it. what i liked most about DLC was the all-inclusive-ness of it all. a lot of camps charge many hidden fees – but here, everything is included when you arrive. activities, food, drinks ... and the staff is incredibly loving and helpful, the camp is secluded & beautiful and the experience is indescribable.

a few tips:

getting there: the famous sand dunes you've probably seen [erg chebbi] are located near the town of merzouga which is about an 8 hour drive from fes or a 10 hour drive from marrakech
- options: rent a car, hire a driver or take a bus [CTM is your best bet for a pleasant experience]
- if traveling to or from marrakech, most people stop for one night in ouarzazate
price per night: desert excursions range anywhere from $70 to $500 euros per person depending on the experience you want. DLC is about $220 euros per person with all activities and food included.

^^ my first ever monkeys in the wild sighting!

my gear: sports bra, tshirt, leggings, trousers
kyle's gear: tshirt | shorts | p ants