Life on Pine

Patagonia

a northern patagonia retreat: barraco lodge

Kate ParrishComment
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BARRACO LODGE


barraco originally came on to our radar by way of some deep internet searching by our friend and pro-trip-planner adam. he found the lodge and was immediately convinced this place was made for us based on a brief description and a few photos. it was a splurge, for sure, but it's a splurge worthy spot that will leave you changed and in awe of the natural beauty of northern patagonia. 

this place is out there – i'm talking a 3 hour drive from puerto varas, to a long dirt road, to another dirt road then finally a boat ride across lake tagua tagua. from there it's an UPHILL climb to the lodge or a ride with the oxen, but the reward is a feeling of pure tranquility. originally a vacation home to the owner's, jaime and marcela, they built the lodge 30 years ago when the land was virtually uninhabited other than the native locals. only a few years ago, the lodge as we know it, was born to share this raw and unique part of the world with travelers seeking authentic outdoor experiences, a taste of patagonian culture & hospitality, and the opportunity to slow down for a bit.
 

THINKING OF HEADING TO PATAGONIA? HERE ARE THE DETAILS:


WHERE: rio puelo, {northern patagonia} chile
TIME OF YEAR: march - april [warm days with plenty of sunshine and clear nights for star viewing] 
HOW TO GET THERE: 3 hour drive from puerto varas, then a short boat ride across the lake
PRICE PER NIGHT: all inclusive pricing (meals, activities, drinks and transportation) depending on how you want to spend your days, reach out on their website
ACTIVITIES AVAILABLE: horseback riding, SUPing, heli-fishing, fly fishing, hiking, heli-adventures, waterfalls, cooking classes, boar hunting... you name it and they will try to make it happen.
THE EXPERIENCE: you arrive, are greeted by two of the cutest dogs on earth [reina and titan], and welcomed with pisco sours and a tasty snack. from there, you settle into your cozy lake-view room, and later choose activities for your stay [however, it's better to arrange your activities before you arrive]. we only had 2 nights (recommend 3 at minimum) and chose to spend our adventure day fishing on the lake – luckily we were successful and ended up eating fresh salmon & roe for dinner! 
 


AROUND THE LODGE:


 our time was spent enjoying the wood fired hot tub, delicious food, unforgettable views and warm-by-day, chilly-by-night weather. we caught a clear night with thousands of stars and a clear milky way that is still a very vivid memory. barraco is one of those places where you can do everything or nothing and feel equally satisfied with your time here because of the surroundings. 
 

FISHING ON THE PUELO RIVER


fishing on the puelo or lake tagua tagua is an experience that is hard to find in most places. the backdrop is wild and the crystal clear water is loaded with trout, salmon and other native fish. whether you decide to troll or fly fish, there is a good chance you will hook something and even if you don't, it will be a day well spent.

to help your odds, barraco staffs many of the native fly fishermen who grew up and still live in this remote land, where they have relied on these waters for hundreds of years. for the adventurous  fly fishermen, you can have them helicopter you into glacial streams and rivers where only a few humans have ever been. we didn't get the opportunity to do this, but heard many fishing tales and even a few photos to prove it.
 

 

Y O U  M I G H T  A L S O  L I K E:


how to: hike the patagonia w trek

Kate Parrish
hiking the patagonia w trek

In December 2014 we hiked the Patagonia W trek in Torres del Paine National Park and it was such a unique and gorgeous experience – when we arrived I immediately knew we'd be back. Since then i've had quite a few friends ask for tips on the logistics for this confusing travel experience, which is what inspired this post. For more photos from our trip check out the blog posts and video, and here's how to make this trip happen:

BEFORE YOU LEAVE: 

  • Visa: nothing is needed before you leave, however you may have to purchase a visa at the airport 
  • Cash: have plenty on hand before you leave [they do not accept Argentinean pesos in Chile so you'll need to have both] there are no ATMs and cash is crucial
  • Seasons: the park is open all year round, however the best season to visit is from October to April – Spring and Summer. We were there in late December. You'll have more sunny days with less rain and more than 16 hours of natural light [the sun went down at 10pm!] 
  • Bus Tickets: buy in advance wherever possible. If you're not able to, be at the bus station when they open
  • Book lodging in advance [by up to 6 months]: while the campgrounds are much easier to reserve, the refugios do book up quickly 

HOW TO GET THERE:

  • Fly to Buenos Aires 
  • Fly to  El Calafate [3 hour from BA]
  • Bus from El Calafate to Puerto Natales [5 hours]
    • Purchase your tickets ahead of time here
  • Bus to Torres Del Paine National Park [3+ hours]
    • Buy a round trip at the bus station in Puerto Natales ticket so that you will have a way to get home after your trek 

WHERE TO SLEEP:
The w trek offers both camping and refugios [small dorm like cabins] – depending on your preference.  They will provide your food and drinks if you choose "full room and board"

  • El Calafate: La Cantera Boutique Hotel
  • Puerto Natales: We are Patagonia [if you're on a budget] The Singular [if you're splurging]
  • W Treak Night 1: El Chileno refugio is tucked alongside a flowing river and is one of the coziest spots on the trek, sleeping is hostel style with a bunk bed in a room of 8+ 
  • W Treak Night 2: Cabanas los cuernos (they offer private cabins and have a hot tub!) or  dome frances, a bit further down the trail and is where we stayed (great food and gets you a head start for the next day)
  • W Treak Night 3: Refugio paine grande one of the bigger refugios with a full bar and private rooms 
  • W Treak Night 4: Vertice grey shelter gets you right up to the glacier grey, and has an epic front deck
     


WHAT TO PACK: 
We were there in summer and the weather changed almost every hour– you need to be prepared for everything. 

patagonia w trek: glacier grey [final day]

Kate ParrishComment

our last day on the trek was spent hiking to the beautiful glacier grey. once we arrived to the lookout point, we were kicking ourselves for not booking one final night at the refugio grey shelter. we had lunch, enjoyed the beautiful weather we were blessed with (apparently the day before it had been unbearably windy), and made our way back to the boat doc for the catamaran that would take us back to where we started – from there, we would go on to catch a bus back to puerto natales, which ended up being the scariest bus ride of my life. 

i felt such a sense of accomplishment as we boarded the boat – we had done it! and were headed for a long day of travel back to buenos aires to celebrate new years eve. i truly hope we can make it back here one day. 

patagonia w trek day III: vertice paine grande

Kate ParrishComment

day III of our trek was the craziest weather we experienced – rainstorms + WIND! – luckily we came prepared with pack covers and rain gear. campo italiano {a small free campsite} was at the base of this trail where we were able to drop our packs for a bit. we saw glaciers and even a mini avalanche. later we walked along a crystal blue lake to arrive at our final refugio – vertice paine grande. this was the biggest of all the refugios; we even had our own little teeny tiny room. there was a bar and a mini-grocery where we were able to pick up some treats. it made for a fun last night on the trail. 

^^ the photos taken after this one are hilarious – it was so windy that i couldn't even stand up 

patagonia w trek day II: the hike to dome frances

Kate ParrishComment

by day two we were starting to feel comfortable with the fact that our entire day would be spent hiking – because the sun doesn't go down until 10pm, we also felt free to take as many photo stops / breaks / long lunches as we wanted. the scenery changed drastically throughout the day as you'll see in these photos – by the time we arrived to our next stop – refugio cuernos and dome frances – we were ready for the new nightly routine: showers, cards, and drinks. i think this was my favorite day. 

^^ here you can see the little refugio + domes tucked away near the lake ^^