trekking to the sun gate at machu picchu

when we decided to visit peru there were moments we considered not going to machu picchu

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which in hindsight sounds crazy. the two main reasons being: 1. the price [it didn't seem very backpacker friendly once you add up the train, entry fees, lodging, guide, etc.] 2. the "touristy" ness of it – i'd heard rumors that it was getting a little out of control. we quickly came to our senses though and realized this was likely a once and a life time experience that would be worth the splurge. later, my parents decided to join us – and it ended up being one of the most memorable and special experiences. 

part of me thought that it would be one of those places ruined by tourism, however that is completely not the case. this is a well oiled machine and if done right, you can experience this treasure in a really unique way. in my opinion, trekking to the sungate is 100% the way to go. this takes 1 day [with an overnight stay] and i honestly couldn't recommend it more. this approach gives you a really unique view of machu picchu, and also gives you that feeling of "WE MADE IT" – which likely wouldn't feel the same if you just took the bus in. 
 

SO! here's what our trip looked like if you're interested:

4am: picked up at our hotel by our guide in a comfy van by alpaca expeditions 
6:30am boarded the train in olleyntambo to start of the trailhead
8:30am began our trek which was mostly uphill – but totally doable
11:00am: explored the wiñay wayna ruins (surprise that blew us away)
12:00pm tented lunch, cooked right there on the mountain
2:00pm arrive at the sungate
4:00pm bus down to aguas calientes
7:00pm dinner at indio feliz - known to one of the best meals in town

we didn't actually go *in* to machu picchu until the following day, we only hiked to the outer perimeter – which is the perfect vantage point and is great for people who don't want to pay the fee to go inside. after soaking in the breathtaking views for a few hours, we boarded the bus and headed down to aguas calientes – a little town that was built for the tourism of MP. its cute enough for one night and we enjoyed our stay at the el mapi. 
 

DAY 2 consisted of exploring inside the gates

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we woke up and had breakfast at our hotel [included in the price] and boarded the bus to the gates of machu picchu around 8:30. some people wake up at 4 am to get to the top for sunrise, but honestly this seemed exhausting and not necessary. at 8am there was no line for the bus – so unless you're a huge sunrise person, don't listen to the people who tell you to go at 4am. the rest of the morning consisted of a full tour with our guide and exploring each little nook and cranny. after exploring we made our way back to town for lunch/drinks at our hotel before heading back to cusco on the train.

there are many ways to make machu picchu happen but we were SO happy with this experience. 
 

my hiking gear: leggings, hoodie, tank are all from OV , socks are smartwool, boots are salomon

Y O U  M I G H T  A L S O  L I K E:

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a day trip to the the sacred valley

the sacred valley, peru 

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if i'm being honest – i was very confused when we were trying to plan this part of our trip. there is *so* much info floating around on the internet and at one point i thought the sacred valley and machu picchu was the same thing. i hope that for future travelers this makes it a little easier to understand.

the sacred valley is a region in the andean highlands near cusco and the ancient city of machu picchu. it formed the heart of the incan empire and is an area of fertile farmland and spanish colonial villages. we visited ollantaytambo, urubamba, moray, the maras salt flats and loved the entire experience. if we'd had more time, i also think staying a night in ollantaytambo would be really fun – the town seemed very cute. 

how to take a day trip to this region

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as i mentioned in this post, this was only a day-trip from cusco. we started at about 8am and ended around 4pm – nothing felt rushed and we were able to see/learn a lot.  i would highly recommend doing this before going to machu picchu, because you learn so much about the incans and it's a great way to ease into the history of the region. 

we took a private tour through alpaca expeditions, which cost roughly $250 for 4 people. this included a private guide, all transportation and lunch. there are definitely cheaper ways to do this, however you lose the perk of having a knowledgable guide [our guide was trained for 4+ years on this region and grew up here]. we are forever grateful to have had my parents in town to treat us to such an incredible experience.  
 

^^ locals gathering for a funeral service in ollantaytambo

Y O U  M I G H T  A L S O  L I K E:

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exploring cusco, the capital of the incan empire

a rough guide on how to tackle cusco

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if you are traveling to the sacred valley or machu picchu, you will inevitably spend a few nights in cusco. and the good thing is, we really liked this town – yes, it's full of tourists. but there is a powerful energy of excitement and you can feel it as you walk through the cozy cobble stoned streets. we ate delicious food, tried many pisco sours, explored the markets and back streets [which almost made it feel semi-european], and loved our cozy little airbnb.

we had 5 days here, and i think any less would be rushing it. of course more time is always better, but 5 days did feel like enough to really experience the region. if we'd had more time i would have loved to see rainbow mountain  – this excursion requires waking up around 3am, though, so you'll want to have another buffer day.

DAY 1: land in cusco [from lima] in the afternoon – check into your lodging and spend the evening exploring
DAY 2: explore the sacred valley [day trip] read more about this HERE
DAY 3: explore cusco
DAY 4: leave for macchu picchu [overnight, sleep in aguas calientes] 
DAY 5: travel back to cusco for the night

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where to eat and drink in cusco, peru 

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cusco is actually full of really delicious restaurants and bars for any price range. because of the amount of people in the city though, it is best to make reservations [at least for dinner] to avoid having to wait for a table. here are some of our favorites:

BARRIO CEVICHE [thanks for the rec, michelle!]: recommended for lunch – arrive when they open to get your pick of tables. some of the tastiest fish and rosé you can get, and right on the square. 
MORENA owned by the same people as barrio ceviche, this peruvian restaurant was our favorite place we had dinner. great decor, amazing food, a pisco sour cart!, excellent service. this is a must. 
CICCIOLINA you'll 100% need a reservation here, they get crazy packed [and for good reason, their food is delicious – we ate here twice]. the squid ink pasta was a highlight for me. 
LA BODEGA 138 after a long day exploring the sacred valley, we wanted a casual and easy dinner. this spot has great salads, good beer and amazing pizzas [which also made tasty left overs]. 
NUEVO MUNDO BAR craft beer in peru is surprisingly awesome – this is a cool bar on the square to grab a drink
 

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HEADING TO LIMA? READ MORE ABOUT THEIR INCREDIBLE FOOD SCENE HERE

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READ MORE: A DAY TRIP TO THE SACRED VALLEY

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Y O U  M I G H T  A L S O  L I K E:

hiking in peru, the laguna 69 trek

hiking laguna 69 

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when most people think of trekking/hiking in peru, machu picchu immediately comes to mind...or at least that's how it was for me. the andean mountain range, though, is the largest in the world [and second highest to nepal] – meaning, there are a ton of mountains, volcanoes and alpine lakes across chile, peru, ecuador, and boliva. 

laguna 69 is an extremely blue glacial lake living at just over 15,000ft – the trek takes about 3.5 hours up and 2 down. with the considerable altitude, it was truly one of the more challenging day hikes i've ever done. if you're not acclimated fully this one can really hurt you [i started getting a pretty bad headache as we reached the top]. that being said, it is also one of the most stunning hikes i've ever done – every turn you are overwhelmed by mountain views, rivers, waterfalls, grazing cattle, gorgeous flowers and ever changing temperatures. interested in making the trek? here are the details:

DISTANCE | 8.5 – 10 miles round trip, depending if you add a stop at laguna 68
TIME | about 5 – 7 hours depending on breaks, etc. 
ELEVATION | climb about 3,000 ft, ending at the lagoon - 15,092 ft
NEED TO KNOW | we took a taxi – buses are also a popular option, though leave you with less flexibility. you cannot drive because there is nowhere to park your car. best to start early for weather's sake. give yourself extra time to acclimate [we stayed two nights in huaraz which helped]. bring plenty of snacks, h2o [we each carried 2.5 liters], NUUN, sunscreen and wear a hat!

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my hiking gear: leggings, hoodie, tank are all from OV , socks are smartwool, boots are salomon

WHERE WE STAYED

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most of the people that plan to trek in the cordillera blanca range end up bussing in from huaraz. the "labour of love" of llanganuco mountain lodge began with the aim of making trekking in the park more accessible & enjoyable, and that's exactly what drew us in. this place is out there and requires driving for over an hour on a very sketchy dirt road [one on which we took a wrong turn and got stuck in the mud for 2+ hours]. this place has minimal electricity, no wifi, gorgeous views, a delightful staff, two resident llamas & two resident pups, comfy beds, delicious food and an all around great energy. LM lodge ($160 a night for 2, includes all meals)

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Y O U  M I G H T  A L S O  L I K E:

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a photo journal through huaraz, peru

traditional peruvian style covers the streets of huaraz

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about a 7-ish hour drive from lima lives the mountain town of huaraz, at 3,000 M [or 10,000 FT] above sea level. as the jumping off point for a ton of andean adventures [like the laguna 69 trek amongst many other multi-day treks and excursions], the town is a mix of backpackers, adventurers and peruvians. what blew me away most about this town, was the locals – this was the first time i truly felt the true peruvian/andean culture and could not get enough of the extraordinary people watching. if you're traveling through huaraz, be sure to check out: the street market in carhuaz [we accidentally stumbled upon this and were the ONLY tourists, it was the best], grab coffee and some zen at yoga cafe, try any of the soups upstairas in the mercado central and try the local beer from cervecerîa siera andina. 

A FEW FAVORITE PHOTOS FROM AROUND THE STREETS OF HUARAZ

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Y O U  M I G H T  A L S O  L I K E:

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