Life on Pine

Poland

visiting auschwitz: an experience we'll never forget

Kate Parrish2 Comments


ARBEIT MACHT FREI
this is the main gate where all of the prisoners entered the camp, which translates to, “work will make you free.”  the prisoners thought they were going to labor camps, while in reality this was camp designed for mass extermination and less than 10% who walked through these gates survived.

OUR EXPERIENCE:
of all the days we were in poland, the day we visited auschwitz had the gloomiest skies and most frigid temperatures. combined with falling snow, it made an already intense experience even more vivid. i knew that visiting auschwitz would be extremely heart breaking and painful, but the sheer magnitude of it all is tough to comprehend.  

auschwitz was actually split into two camps, which i didn't realize before. the first camp was originally constructed to hold polish political prisoners who began arriving in may 1940. later they built birkenau, the second camp, which was the largest prison complex built by the nazis and its size was visually disturbing. in total an estimated 1.3 million people were sent to the camps with at least 1.1 million being killed. in the 4+ years the camp was occupied, it was staffed by 7,000 members of the german SS – only 12% of whom were later convicted of war crimes. the nauseating stories, inhumane conditions and glimpse into the severity of the winters here is something i will never forget.

GETTING THERE:
the experience of getting to auschwitz is fairly easy – we arranged for a shuttle/tour and were picked up at our airbnb. the ride lasts about an hour and the bus was pretty quiet and somber – gazing out the window i wondered how much the scenery had changed since the 40's. when we arrived, i was shocked by how many tourists there were. buses, crowds, a book store... that being said, most people were very respectful. the setting is such that you almost feel like you shouldn't talk, and if you do talk, a whisper feels more appropriate. there were of course a few people that make you want to punch them in the face as they take jumping photos [why, honestly, why]. we hesitated to take any photos of our own, but also wanted to share the experience with readers who might never get the chance to visit. 

THINGS TO KNOW:

  • book a small private group before you go, not when you arrive [there were about 12 people in ours, the guide was very knowledgable and had worked there for 14 years. $35/per person]. don't try to do it on your own. 
  • even if you already know a lot about the holocaust, we found it helpful to brush up on our history before visiting the camp. we also re-watched schindler's list which if you haven't seen it, is a must. 
     

kraków: why poland should be on your travel radar

Kate Parrish2 Comments


KRAKÓW:
a city [and country] with heavy history, delicious food, cold winters, warm people and a very soulful energy. we'd been excited for quite a while to visit kraków, but still weren't sure what to expect. for the most part they still aren't on the typical european tourist track and despite becoming recently known for their creative renaissance, it was still somewhat of an intriguing mystery. it helped that one of our best friends with deep polish roots visited here a couple of years ago, swearing by the city and his time spent here.

with 13th -14th century churches, an imposing castle and europe's largest market square - the old town of kraków is full of historic charm. in the jewish quarter [kazimierz], you are reminded of the tragic history here during WWII, but also inspired by the art scene, hip cafes, creative food and inviting culture that reigns today. while we visited in the dead of winter, it seems like the most charming of seasons might be autumn – beat the heat and avoid the frigid winter [that being said, their christmas market was very fun to see, you can read more about that here]. 
 


TRAVEL TIPS:

  • eat pierogis & borscht soup and lots of it. our two favorite spots were przystanek (locals sent us here as "the best in town") and mr. vincent in kazimierz.
  • sick of pierogis? try some of these spots, too: pod baranem authentic polish restaurant, great for dinner | boscaiola pizzeria in a beautiful old vaulted brick ceiling | skwer judah food truck park | zenit hip culinary & cocktail experience | kolanko no. 6 patio, food and ambiance all great here | focha42 italian inspired, food is really good and a popular spot with locals.
  • drink vodka i'm not a vodka-straight person... but i really enjoyed bison grass. there are a bunch of cool bars where you can try the different vodkas and blend in with the locals. some we liked are: mleczarnia | miejsce | singerwódka cafe bar
  • sick of vodka? enjoy the cafe culture! BAL is the best. we went here multiple times, perfect for coffee, lunch or drinks. it's also around the corner from schindler's factory and MOCAK | cheder jewish cafe and event space. great vibes and tucked away in the jewish quarter | mostowa artcafe fun spot with local art displayed and a deep local beer/cider menu
  • take a day to see auschwitz read more about our somber experience in our next post


  • avoid restaurants & cafes right off the square kraków is really cheap, but these cafes will rip you off 
  • day trip to the salt mine baths 30 minutes from kraków by train is a 13th century salt mine that has been converted to a bath house, music venue and resort. the mines are very medicinal as the air underground is free of pollution and rich in micronutrients.

SLEEP: airbnb (€) designed by an architect host, this studio was chic, clean and perfect. it's in a cool local neighborhood and great for budget travelers. we stayed here and loved it | aparthotel stare miasto (€€€) full apartments with exposed brick decor – most rooms have jacuzzis, but on the higher end. 

 

 

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:


4 cozy european christmas markets

Kate Parrish2 Comments

joyous noel from switzerland! chistmas in europe is the most festive thing i've ever seen.

with no thanksgiving holiday, the christmas markets here start around mid-november which gives a whole lot of time to enjoy the christmas spirit. most city's main squares are covered in tiny wooden shops featuring craftsman, christmas decorations, local foods {meats & sweets}, holiday beverages [for children and adults], beautiful lights, decorated trees, live music, and always happy vibes. packed with tourists and locals alike, every night of the week is lively and gives you good reason to brave the cold winter temps. here are a few of the our favorite christmas markets:

1. VIENNA, austria 


for more info on the vienna holiday markets, click here

 

2. MUNICH, germany 


for more info on the munich christmas markets, click here

 


3. BUDAPEST, hungary 


for more information on budapest christmas markets, click here

 

4. KRAKOW, poland


for more information on the krakow christmas markets, click here